OK, played a few more sessions:
Controls are fine once you get used to it. They're designed for people flailing in VR, after all.
I'd actually go so far as to say that mouse&keyboard is a bit superior, since Helm and Tac get some (very limited) keyboard shortcuts. So Helm can actually fly the ship with WASD, plus a few keys for throttle, and the only thing you need mouse for is plotting courses and going to Impulse/Warp. Weapons is almost better, since while your only shortcuts are "fire weapons", it means that you can keep your mouse on the targeting and disruption screens.
Also helps that the pace is fairly slow. Everyone fires like a fighter-plane but moves like a cruiser. Everyone's weapons and shields take time to load (and even to come up - there's a full ten seconds between raising the shields and when the shields come up!). So you've got plenty of time to think (or make bad jokes).
The big "gotchas" seem to be (a) folks who don't communicate properly (both in the "I just never say anything" and the "I'm not Captain but bossing people around" senses), and (b) some younger folks who are enjoying flailing their arms around and just exit games without warning. I've noticed when a lot of the folks my age are proactively starting to kick the "kiddies", but I did a run with a bunch of pre-teens and while we lost (and lost *horribly*), everyone had a good time.
I don't know if I'd recommend it at $60 worth of fun (but then I generally dislike paying that much for a game), but the $30 I got it for during the Steam Sale - totally worth it.